We had the absolute pleasure to chat to one of India's most brilliant design stars, Sabyasachi, credited with dressing some of the country's most illustrious and stylish women. Most recently in the news for having cast his spell on none other than Oprah Winfrey, Sabyasachi has redefined the essence of style from the subcontinent, making it cool to be 'desi', and inspiring women across the country and beyond to embrace the grace and history of this great country. Gentle and soft spoken, this phenomenon seems totally at peace with his enormous success and the demands that come along with it. The surprisingly approachable maestro struck us with his intellect and insight, and can we just say....we really liked him! We were at his trunk show hosted by Rivaage at the Raffles hotel in Dubai. Sabyasachi is available at the Rivaage boutique at the Sunset Mall in Dubai.
Designer Sabyasachi with the Ed
RVN: Where do you live?
SABYASACHI: All over the place these days! My home is in Kolkata, but I shuttle between Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata, so I suppose I live in my suitcase!
RVN: How did you get started in design? Did you study it formally?
SABYASACHI: My parents wanted me to be a doctor. I dabbled in science, and then economics, and failed miserably! I heard of a fashion institute opening in Kolkata, and so I applied. I passed the entrance exam, and I was in! I didnt have any formal training before that, but I used to stitch costumes for street theatre and had always been interested in fashion. I remember being enamoured by my friend's stylish mothers in their saris and pearls when they would come to pick them up from school.
Sabyasachi and Amit
RVN: Who is your fashion mentor?
SABYASACHI: Madonna. Not so much for how she dresses, but for her thinking. I admire her considered sensation, and her ability to provoke thought through popular culture. Mita Ghosh, my very stylish neighbour is also a great inspiration. I used to watch her as I grew up, going to glam ourous parties all dressed up. I used to do sketches and show them to her for her approval. She inspired me to design clothes, and today she is a member of my team! I also really admire women like Zeenat Aman and Dimple Kapadia.
RVN:What is your view on fashion in India?
SABYASACHI: Fashion in India is disappointing to say the least. We seem to have lost our identity a little bit, and seem to be trying too hard to be like western designers. There is no point of view. We need to wake up and mature.
Mishaal and Tehzeeb
RVN: What is your view on the obsessive use of celebrities on fashion week catwalks? Do you feel they have a place there?
SABYASACHI: India is very different to the west, in that people's imagination is captured by cinema, cricket, politics and religion. If Bollywood is mobilised to support and highlight fashion then I do not think it is a negative thing. The people relate to it. The fault lies more with the fashion media in India, who do not know how to to separate the two. If the celebrity focus distracts from the design, then the press is weak. A good reporter will make sure it happens right, and Bollywood will merely be the accent, and not the whole outfit.
RVN: You have established yourself as a designer with a strong Indian identity with a modern twist. What do you think is the secret of your success as a designer?
SABYASACHI: I think my secret is that I manage to tell women to look beautiful in their own skin. I am not a preachy brand. I give them something they can wear for the rest of their lives. I create value for my customers. They may go back home with an empty wallet, but they also know that what they have invested in, they will be able to wear and enjoy for a very long time to come.
A young lady that caught our eye.
RVN: Which designers from India and abroad do you admire?
SABYASACHI: I am a huge fan of Asha Sarabai, and of course Rohit Khosla, who started it all off for designers in India. I also love the work of Dries Van Noten, Phoebe Philo and Stella McCartney.
RVN: Your collections are peppered with cultural and political references. How important do you think that has been to the success of your brand?
SABYASACHI: Though I am not a political person, politics is part of the dna of India, so those references would be to highlight a particular moment or atmosphere. Culture and education are extremely important. Cultural viability makes a brand desirable and relevant.
Rohini Gehani
RVN: There are certain women that embody the essence of Sabyasachi. The ones that come to mind are Sabina Chopra and Vidya Balan. Is there anyone else you would love to dress, and that you see as a Sabyasachi woman?
SABYASACHI: Payal my sister! Madonna once said "rejection is the best aphrodisiac'" and Payal is just not interested in dressing up in my clothes. She is of the less is more school of thought and is more than happy to be dressed in simple cotton clothes cotton Fabindia. I like people who don't think I'm cool enough!
RVN: In the past, and perhaps even now, there is a lot of rubbish on our Indian catwalks. Only now are we seeing the emergence of some real talent coming up through the ranks. What do you think is required to hone a more credible fashion industry in India?
SABYASACHI: Unfortunately, people are more interested in the business of fashion, rather than the talent. The fashion weeks need to divorce themselves from the politics and personal interests from people within the fold. There has been a relectance from the bigger more established names to allow the newer names to emerge and flourish. There is a lack of maturity and ability to see the bigger picture. Lakme has managed to largely avoid politics, and I think it is very successful because of it.
RVN: What are your plans for the future? Are you planning to expand to other parts of the world?
SABYASACHI: I plan to start a very accessible children's clothing line, and I want to optimise my presence in India. I will of course continue to do trunk shows around the world, but India is the defining market of the future. 5 years ago I had a turnover of 5 crores (1.5 million Dirhams approx), and today the brand is at 63 crores, all from India.
RVN: So what's the deal with you and Oprah?
SABYASACHI: Well. I think my sari met Oprah before I did! Aishwarya had worn my sari on her show some time ago, and she had remarked to her how much she loved it. So when she came to India recently, her team tracked me down through Parmeshwar Godrej. I consequently went to see Oprah for a fitting. She started to talk to me about spirituality, and asked me my thoughts on it. I told her that for us in India it is a part of who we are, and nothing extraordinary. It is a part of our daily lives, and perhaps a bit matter of fact. She was fascinated by that. Then recently her god daughter Kirby had worn one of my outfits. Oprah loved it so much, she came to my store in Mumbai, and basically cleaned it out! We really weren't expecting her to come by, much less buy everything in sight! We then met again in Jaipur where she wore my sari to the Jaipur Literary Festival. I remember she took me aside and asked me if I had another store in Jaipur, because she wasnt done shopping yet! It was a dream come true to meet her, and for her to have loved my work so much.
